Drying Flowers

It’s much easier today to dry large whole flower heads by using an old window screen. Poke holes in the screen and space out the blooms by inserting them so the stems hang down and the petals lay flat; you can do more for flower projects. Be sure to place books or bricks under the edge to raise your screen up to allow air to circulate from top and bottom. After they are completely dry spray with hair spray or varnish to preserve and help prevent them from falling apart. Try drying chives, marigolds, chrysanthemums, roses, cornflower and aster with this method because they all have large flower heads. All other herbs with small flowers like lavender can be cut and tied into small bunches to be hung up to dry. Place them in a attic, spare room, closet or shed out of direct sunlight for 2 to 5 weeks. Check them often and be sure to leave space between to allow air to circulate between them. Herbs for tea also require a warm dry place if you choose to air dry. You could cut or pick off the leaves, place on a cookie sheet and dry on the lowest setting in an oven. Try mint, parsley and bee balm. Once the leaves are dry store them in a jar out of light.

 

 

PRESERVING WITH GLYCERIN is also easy to do for stems of leaves or greenery in arrangements. Buy a bottle of glycerin at your local drug store, mix 2/3 cup to 1/3 cup of boiling water and place in a tall jar. Stand the cut leaf material upright in the jar. Remove all the bottom leaves and make some cuts in the stems to help them absorb the solution. If the leaves are large you may need to use a 50/50 mixture. Place them out of light in a dry place for 2 weeks and check often. It may take some as long as 5 weeks to absorb the solution. Good for preserving whole fern fronds, smaller stems with colorful red leaves like those from Purple sand cherry or gray Lambs Ears.

PRESSING flowers is another way to preserve them for craft purposes and is simple to do with a large amount of books and newspapers. Layer the blooms and leaves you want to press in between paper towels and newspaper to absorb the moisture, then pile some magazines or large books on top to create a press. Leave for a few weeks and check for dryness. You can purchase a press or use the method above as both work just as well. Use pressed flowers to decorate cards, bookmarks, or framed art. Glue to trays, tables or other small furniture to make a bold new look on old or recycled items. Be sure to seal with water based sealer or varnish to protect.

Seasonal care of the garden

Care for outdoor containers or window boxes, planters, large pots and hanging baskets requires you to remove all the plants. Each spring you can add new soil and plants or replant any perennials you have over wintered. Containers are ideal for balconies, decks and patios but they need more watering than soil gardens, as they dry out quickly. You may need to add time release fertilizer to the potting soil or buy fertilizer that dissolves in water. Try planting a dish garden with herbs or succulents that need very little water or attention for sunny locations. Large containers can be lined with moss to help hold moisture.

Keep them sheltered from harsh winds and hot direct sun all day. Planters are good for placing in front of fences, walls, drainpipes or other unsightly eyesores. If you plant some drought tolerant plants together they should do well as they are suited for and thrive in dry conditions. They will not need as much care, direct sun or require special soil. Most annuals do fine in tubs, containers or baskets because they are bred to be compact and flower all through the summer season. You can pack a lot together for a big show of color. Below is an example of a window box full of Purple Petunia with a large impact.

 

Annuals are easy to care for if you trim off stems that are setting seeds. This promotes branching and new growth so you will have blooms all season. Perennials that bloom at different times can add charm in a large planter, so maintenance is easy. Deadhead the spent blooms once or twice a week to keep your pot garden looking good. Clean out weeds as you see them or apply mulch to cut down on work. Take a walk through the garden daily to look for pests who damage foliage or check out seedlings that may require some extra care or water. On extra hot days they may be stressed and wilting from too much sun. Newly planted seedlings will need water often until they are rooted. This applies to vegetables too. You can group together the plants that have similar needs. Space them close so they won’t dry out as fast. Raised beds are also an option to help reduce watering and keep weeds down to a minimum. If you know some one handy you can have custom planting tables made in any size to fit your needs. These are excellent for growing herbs and veggies, are portable and require little bending.

How to propagate by dividing

Selling extra plants after dividing large over grown clumps can be a way to share with others and even make a little money. You can also trade with other gardeners for plants you don't have. Be sure to label the divisions as you pot them with name and color of blooms.

If you have perennials that are too big for their spot, dividing them is the best option. Splitting the clump is good for the plant if it has stopped blooming because the roots may be so compacted and root bound it needs to be rejuvenated. The best time for dividing is early spring before the plant grows and the leaves are too big. If the perennials flower in spring wait until they are finished to dig up and divide.

 

1. First dig up the whole root ball and remove most of the soil. Cut off any old roots that look black or show signs of holes from insects feeding.

2. Use a sharp knife, spade or garden forks to pry apart into half and then quarters.

3. Trim off about half the length of the roots to promote new growth. Replant the divisions or pot up to give to friends or sell. Cut off the old flower stems and divide all other plants when the heat of summer is over and the plants can be cut back.

4. It’s best to divide rhubarb in fall time (September) this gives it time to root in before winter.

5. All potted perennials need to be protected over winter. If you want to save them to add to a new garden space in spring you need to have a holding spot in soil to sink them underground to overwinter in the pots. Make sure to put the pots deep enough to just cover the rim of the pot with soil then mound soil up around the crown of the plant. In spring you can dig up the pots to replant the perennials in a new garden or even sell them.

 

 

6. Making A New border or island garden? Plan Ahead. The extra plants you have stored in pots may be used in a future garden in the near future. I have become too lazy in my retirement for digging up grass for new flower gardens so to save time I use newspaper, scraps of carpet or dark colored tarp to lay on top of the grass. Layer this in late summer or fall and leave it all through the winter until May when the ground has warmed. Dig it up remove any remaining weeds or grass and add some compost or manure. Wait a couple of weeks and rake again to be sure all is cleared, then plant the perennials you have saved in pots.