Teas for Health and wellness

General Tea Tips

Green tea is the freshest type of tea to buy and fights off many diseases like cancer and stroke. The black teas are processed but taste a little stronger than green, with a hearty flavor. All the teas contain antioxidants for good health and fight free radicals in our bodies. Tea is one of the most popular drinks in the world. The herbal teas don’t contain real tea but can be mixed with some for many added health and wellness advantages. Simply add a tea bag or tea infuser with loose dry leaves into a large jar, some fresh cut stems from your herb garden and steep outside in the sun for at least 6 hours. Strain and sweeten to taste. Add real lemon slices and ice for a refreshing summer tea.

 

Dry some bunches of lavender, chamomile, parsley, catnip, mint, lemon thyme, bee balm. These can be added to tea (camellia sinensis) for aiding digestion, help with colds and flu to boost immune systems, reduce fever and headaches, cleanse for a detox tea after the flu. Peppermint tea aids gas and digestion as well as sleep. Mix lemon and honey to chamomile tea for insomnia. Yarrow, lambs ear and parsley will help boost immune systems to fight off colds, flu, sore throats, infections, allergies and fever. They also have antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Catnip tea aids in a calming effect to aid sleep.

 

Herbal, black and green teas all need to steep at least 5-8 minutes to release the oils for flavor. You may mix all kinds of cool teas for iced drinks or use in smoothies. The health benefits are endless. Use boiling water to steep 2 or 3 teaspoons of dry herbs with loose tea leaves in a tea ball or strain. Cover the pot to allow the tea to infuse. Strain and drink hot or cold. Cold tea should only be kept in the refrigerator for a day. Add honey, lemon or maple syrup or stevia to sweeten.

 

SUN TEA: For a basic herbal tea, place a couple of tea bags or loose tea in a large glass jar of water, add a cup of fresh mint leaves and cover with a lid. Place the jar out in direct sun for at least 5 or 6 hours to steep. Strain, sweeten to your own taste and add lemon slices and ice. The benefits of tea are endless and are easy to add to a daily diet. The natural antioxidants fight high blood pressure, infections, strokes, intestinal cancer, wrinkles and aging, heart disease and controls cholesterol. It helps with tooth decay, pain and inflammation of joints and arthritis. The polyphenols in tea are what help our bodies in so many ways. Health and bulk stores sell many kinds of loose leaf teas and they all contain organic properties that we can use daily. Start out with 2 to 4 cups per day for a healthy drink. Lemon mint, Parsley, Thyme and Lavender are all very easy to grow in most any type of garden soil or in pots on a balcony or deck.

 

Special plants with special uses as good companions

Herbs: plants of which the leaves, stems, roots and seeds are used for food, medicines, scent or oils for flavoring. They are helpful if gathered from the wild or home grown in gardens and can be most useful if planted along side other crop plants. There are a lot of ways to use plants to ward off pests, attract bees and other pollinators we need and want in our garden. They can be planted around other plants to deter bugs from dining and make organic fertilizer for plants. The strong smelling herbs contain oils and compounds as well as poisonous leaves you can put to good use to keep food safe. Yarrow, rosemary, chamomile, mints and dill can be planted in between the food plants. These help provide food and shelter for bees and butterflies so they can come to pollinate. They spread the pollen for foods like cucumbers, melons, squash, corn, wheat, potatoes, onion, beets, broccoli, cabbage, beans, peppers, pumpkin, strawberries and many other important foods we grow to eat. If not for them we would not have all our favorite fruits and vegetables.

 

Bees like colorful flowers and nectar but it’s the pollen that they come for, pick up and spread that aids your garden the most. A few good choices to bring the bees are: sedum, monarda or bee balm, basil,
lavender, clover, heather, globe flower, pulmonaria and goldenrod. The strong aroma in herbs are found in the oils of the plant contained in leaves, flowers and stems. Once you steep or ferment them you will have organic insecticide or fertilizer for various uses around your garden.

 

Rhubarb and chrysanthemums have built in bug repellent. They are poison to humans also but can be made into an organic tea to spray on plants. Chop up some leaves and place in a large jar or bucket to let sit and ferment for 1 or 2 weeks. Keep covered then strain into a spray bottle. Keep all the utensils in a shed or garage for just this purpose. DON’T eat the sprayed plants for at least two weeks. To help keep pests under control use garlic, chives, basil, artimesia, hot pepper spray mixed with a teaspoon of dish soap. Some wild things that are easy to get for insecticidal soap are: dandelion, nettle, mint, tansy. Sunflowers, chamomile, yarrow, hyssop and basil have the flowers to attract many beneficial insects. Our ancestors used folk medicine handed down over generations to treat rashes, infections, coughs, for cooking and flavoring food, healing wounds, making perfumes and cosmetics and teas for General good health. Many of the teas are blended and contain vitamins and antioxidants to boost our immune systems and fight free radicals that harm our bodies.

Plants for Health and Wellness

Medicinal Plants

Using plants for medicine has been a common practice for thousands of years. People have dried them for cooking, tea, vinegar, soap, shampoo, or to treat illnesses like headaches, asthma, gas and sore throats. Some of the most common herbs to aid in sleep or relax us are easily grown in our backyard gardens. A good many of the plants used for medicinal teas or flavored vinegar are: basil, dill, peppermint or other mints, parsley, lavender, bee balm, chamomile, marjoram, sage, lemon balm, oregano, chives, garlic, catnip, yarrow and thyme. Soaps, compresses’ and bath salts are very easy to make using your own dry plant material. Moth repellent bags are easily made of dry herbs, hung in closets or tucked in linen drawers for seasonal storage of wool coats or blankets.

Drying herbs can be done by hanging them in a closet or shed, in a dehydrator, or in an oven on the lowest temperature setting. Once dry store the blooms and leaves in a airtight container or jar.

To make bath bags to give as gifts for family and friends, use dry herbs as follows:

A sweet mixture using dry rose petals makes for a soothing bath or foot soak along with dry sage, lavender and parsley. Mix a few teaspoons of herbs to 1/2 cup of Epsom salts or sea salt. For a large jar mix 1 cup herbs to 3 cups salts, cover with a lid and infuse about 2 weeks. Essential oils can be mixed in too, then cut 8 inch squares of Muslim or any gauzy shear material. Place a 1/2 cup of mix in the middle of the cloth and tie with a ribbon. Store your bath bags in a lidded container or jar. Just throw a bag into your foot bath or tub and leave it for 5 to 10 minutes. These bags ease stress, help with aches and pains, calm and promote sleep, soothe dry skin and heal insect bites.

Many herbs are also used to make lotions, lip salves, ointments, wines, vinegar, flavor butter, gargles for sore throats and many other health issues. Parsley tea is loaded with vitamin C and will calm a cough as well as boost your immune system. Add it to meatloaf or potatoes every day for good health. Fresh and dry herbs can be used in bread, salads, pickled vegetables, pesto, sauces and marinated meat dishes. Use and grow a few of the herbs you like. Dill, parsley, rosemary and basil all grow well in pots indoors and out, can be easily cared for to use year round

 ROOM Freshener Spray

Mix in a small spray bottle: 1/4 cup cooled boiled water, 2 tablespoons of vodka (40%) alcohol and 20 to 30 drops of essential oils. Combine lavender and lemon for a fresh bright scent to clean fabrics or just as an air freshener. Make your own combinations to refresh linens, spray onto curtains and sofas, or to add a wonderful natural scent to sweaters or jackets.

House plants for clean air

With the cooler weather coming soon it’s time to get a few houseplants that filter your indoor air. Easy to grow plants that thrive with minimal care and water are the best way to help clean, absorb and eliminate harmful pollutants from the air. These plants reduce toxins indoors as they suck up bad VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) that are found in new plastic, carpets, wood products, paint and even cigarette smoke. They are most dangerous in winter months when we close our windows and doors. Testing has shown that VOC’s cause headaches, cancer, eye, ear, and throat irritation, nausea, damage to kidneys and liver as well as central nervous system in humans and animals. Some are more toxic than others but it depends on how much concentrated these hazardous compounds are in your home. One way to avoid them is to look for products marked LOW-VOC or no VOC’s when making new purchases. Tropical plants can help reduce VOC’s.

 

Snakeplant or Mother-in-law-tongue is one that tolerates low to medium light and irregular watering. Plant in a pot and forget about it as it does well in any home. Just Do Not Overwater it. Aloe also does well in low light with very little care. It has fleshy stems that are succulent and stores water so is easy to grow. Jade plants and Kalanchoe are easy tropical plants that grow slowly, need little water and grow in most light conditions. They also tolerate cooler temperatures indoors. Wandering Jew is another one with patterned leaves in blue green or silver stripes. Use them in hanging baskets in a kitchen or bathroom where they can get some humidity. It’s easy to propagate new cuttings in water. Devils ivy is a vine from Polynesia that can grow rapidly if not trimmed. The heart shaped leaves are sometimes variegated or striped and glossy. They are good at removing VOC’s from our homes. Be aware that this plant is toxic to cats and dogs so keep away from pets.

 

Headera Helix (ivy) is a vine that can be trained as a topiary or living wreath indoors. Some can become invasive if not trimmed often but are easy to grow. Bamboo palms can be great in large pots and are very ornamental. When they become too large divide them and re-pot, or cut back the old part and it will regrow. They will be fine in low indirect light and can be as big as 12 meters high when full grown. Chinese evergreen and Peace lily both are others to consider but are toxic to animals if eaten.

 

 

Fall cleanup

 

Canna Lilies are a large summer bulb that has giant banana like plant leaves and grow to a height of 7 or 8 feet tall. There are many kinds with dark red leaves, variegated leaves of solid green. Blooms vary from dark red to orange in color. In fall dig up the entire plants, trim off the stems, dry and clean the bulbs to be stored in a cool dry place in your basement. Store in a wooden box that has holes for air to circulate to prevent rot. Do the same for bulbs like calla lily and any other summer flowering bulbs.
 

Fall is a good time to trim overgrown evergreens and flowering shrubs, cut back roses and trim vines for winter. You can cut off seed heads and trim perennials to about 5 or 6 inches. Some plants need to be covered with soil and or leaves to protect them from the cold. This is a good time to buy trees and shrubs at your garden center because they have them reduced on sale. Cooler temperatures in September are the ideal time to plant or move trees and shrubs. Be sure they get plenty of water if it doesn’t rain, right up to the end of October. This is a great time to dig up old or unwanted plants, things that are too large or a plant that has become root bound and didn’t bloom. Do this every 3 or 4 years for plants like hosta and day lily. As the leaves fall clean up and use in your compost pile. Plant garlic, shallots and young strawberries now as well as spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils. Dig up any summer bulbs like canna lily and dahlia, trim them, dry out and store in a box or mesh bag in cool dry basement over winter. Finish digging late potato crops before we get a hard frost, and bring your houseplants inside when the nights cool down to 10C or lower. Pick up any fallen fruit under trees, so pests don’t have a chance to overwinter in your yard. They like to crawl in and under rotting debris.

 

Clean, oil and sharpen all garden cutting or pruning tools before storing for winter. Stock pile as much plant material as you can now, bagging it up for composting in spring. Soft stems, annuals, leaves from trees can all be layered with kitchen scraps. Tender herbs can be potted up and brought indoors now for use in winter soups and stews. Cut back woody herbs like lavender and sage to about 6 inches. To grow a green manure plant some soybeans or rye and turn them over in early spring to rot and fertilize the soil. Use your evergreen branches to provide winter protection from winds on any tender perennials or shrubs like azalea and rhododendrons.

If you have perennials in pots be sure to dig a trench in the veggie garden to sink them in the ground to over winter. Be sure to place the pot deep in the ground and cover the rim of the pot with soil. Many hardy types will survive like this until spring and you can dig up the pots and decide to sell, give away or re-plant them in a new spot in your garden.

Rock gardens

You may have a gentle slope or uneven area in your yard that could be a rockery using some good size boulders and then rocks for the base with smaller ones for creating plant pockets. The highest area can be on the back or one side to create the illusion of even more height. Place taller plants there to help shelter the smaller plants from wind and sun. Add a short wall with brick or flagstone as well as places to step or informal paths in between to allow easy weeding and maintenance. Build your crevices and plant pockets with the smaller pieces of field stones to form outcropping and low areas, then fill with soil and compost to plant. All this can be planned out on paper ahead of time so you have a good idea of how much rock you will need, how many plants to buy and where they will go. Plant small bulbs like these mini allium. They are available with purple, white or yellow blooms. Most are finished blooming before the perennials and die back to disappear when finished.

 

You can plant a few and add to the rockery in between perennial plants over time. You may want a few low growing shrubs as well so buy and plant them first. They can be purchased in fall or on sale at the end of the season but don’t plant later than the end of September so they have time to become rooted well before winter. Creeping plants are great on the edge of walls and slopes if allowed to hang over to create a ground cover of blooms. SPRING: Don’t forget to plant a few spring bulbs in the fall, placed in between the late spring and summer perennials. They will add lots of colours to the garden early before anything else is emerging from the ground. Try mini tulips, crocus, grape hyacinth. Perennials for spring blooms include primrose, pulmonaria and rock cress.

 

EARLY SUMMER: Columbine, candytuft, thrift, bleeding heart, bellflower, lily of the valley, coral bells and Shasta Daisy will bloom in late May and early June. Mid to LATE SUMMER: Day lily, liatris, giant iris, Ajuga, lambs ears, thyme, artemisia, ornamental grass, black eye susan, sedum, Lady's Mantle and chrysanthemums all do well in rock gardens with mostly sunny locations. They are also drought tolerant plants once they become established in a rockery, need little care and water and don’t require special soil. Many low growing herbs like creeping thyme, creeping phlox and chives look great in crevices and pockets. Hens and chicks and low growing creeping sedum spread and root on the ground where their stems touch but are easy to control if trimmed back each spring. Use good top soil, compost with peat moss and manure when you start planting. This will allow the plants a good base soil to root in and become self sufficient for many years. Replenish with a top dressing of manure or compost every few years.

 

For winter protection from wind, freezing and thawing, simply leave some of the foliage to provide cover for the plants and clean up the dry stems and leaves in spring. Tender shrubs can be wrapped in burlap and roses need to be covered or collared with leaves to help with winters harmful wind and cold. Plant bulbs in October and see how much interest and color they add to your garden. Most spring bulbs die back when they are finished blooming at the end of May to make room for the perennials. Oxalis, Scilla, snowdrops and crocus all emerge as soon as the snow melts and do well in rock gardens. Mini tulips like “Tarda” are bright yellow and grow to 3 or 4 inches high. They have large 2 inch blooms and will multiply over time so you can dig some up and plant them all through the garden. Hyacinth and Daffodils also come in short mini varieties for a rockery.

Native Wildflowers

Hardy plants that thrive in your area, growing in meadows or ditches along roadsides are true native wildflowers. If you are curious about growing some of these plants it only requires you to take a hike along trails or a drive in the country. Our area of Southern Ontario and the surrounding Great Lakes Region is very diverse with many different mixed forests, open grassland, rivers and wildflower habitats. Local wildflowers can be used in a backyard garden to add color, variety and interest because they are easy to care for and already know how to survive well on their own. Choose plants that fit the habitats you already have in your garden. Some will thrive in open full sun while others grow well in shade under trees and shrubs. The site you plant in should mimic their home in the wild.

 

 

Wildflowers For Full Sun: Black eye Susan, Blazing Star, Thistles, Tansy, Boneset, Queen Anne Lace, Spurge, Lupine, Campion, Blue  Chichory, Meadowsweet, Yarrow, Plantain, Mullein and Pink or white clover.

Wildflowers For Shady Woodlands: Solomon Seal, Trillium, Jack in the pulpit, Lady’s Slipper, Bleeding Heart, Hepatiea, wood Nettle, Violets, wood sorrel.

 Wildflowers For Wetlands: Celandine poppy, Bloodroot, Dutchman breeches, St John wort, Purple Loostrife, Jacob Ladder. Columbine, Lupine and Liatris are all long lasting wildflowers that grow in most any conditions.

 

Wildflowers For a Sandy Rockery: Sedum, Milkweed, Campion, Meadowsweet, Honeysuckle, Teasel, Yellow Loostrife, Fall Aster, Pussy Toes, Milkworts, Pasque flower Wildflowers For Dry Shade: Evening Primrose, Cardinal flower, Violet, snakeroot, fleabane daisy Be sure to deadhead all the spent blooms to control seeds from spreading all over your garden.

 

 

Drying Flowers

It’s much easier today to dry large whole flower heads by using an old window screen. Poke holes in the screen and space out the blooms by inserting them so the stems hang down and the petals lay flat; you can do more for flower projects. Be sure to place books or bricks under the edge to raise your screen up to allow air to circulate from top and bottom. After they are completely dry spray with hair spray or varnish to preserve and help prevent them from falling apart. Try drying chives, marigolds, chrysanthemums, roses, cornflower and aster with this method because they all have large flower heads. All other herbs with small flowers like lavender can be cut and tied into small bunches to be hung up to dry. Place them in a attic, spare room, closet or shed out of direct sunlight for 2 to 5 weeks. Check them often and be sure to leave space between to allow air to circulate between them. Herbs for tea also require a warm dry place if you choose to air dry. You could cut or pick off the leaves, place on a cookie sheet and dry on the lowest setting in an oven. Try mint, parsley and bee balm. Once the leaves are dry store them in a jar out of light.

 

 

PRESERVING WITH GLYCERIN is also easy to do for stems of leaves or greenery in arrangements. Buy a bottle of glycerin at your local drug store, mix 2/3 cup to 1/3 cup of boiling water and place in a tall jar. Stand the cut leaf material upright in the jar. Remove all the bottom leaves and make some cuts in the stems to help them absorb the solution. If the leaves are large you may need to use a 50/50 mixture. Place them out of light in a dry place for 2 weeks and check often. It may take some as long as 5 weeks to absorb the solution. Good for preserving whole fern fronds, smaller stems with colorful red leaves like those from Purple sand cherry or gray Lambs Ears.

PRESSING flowers is another way to preserve them for craft purposes and is simple to do with a large amount of books and newspapers. Layer the blooms and leaves you want to press in between paper towels and newspaper to absorb the moisture, then pile some magazines or large books on top to create a press. Leave for a few weeks and check for dryness. You can purchase a press or use the method above as both work just as well. Use pressed flowers to decorate cards, bookmarks, or framed art. Glue to trays, tables or other small furniture to make a bold new look on old or recycled items. Be sure to seal with water based sealer or varnish to protect.

Seasonal care of the garden

Care for outdoor containers or window boxes, planters, large pots and hanging baskets requires you to remove all the plants. Each spring you can add new soil and plants or replant any perennials you have over wintered. Containers are ideal for balconies, decks and patios but they need more watering than soil gardens, as they dry out quickly. You may need to add time release fertilizer to the potting soil or buy fertilizer that dissolves in water. Try planting a dish garden with herbs or succulents that need very little water or attention for sunny locations. Large containers can be lined with moss to help hold moisture.

Keep them sheltered from harsh winds and hot direct sun all day. Planters are good for placing in front of fences, walls, drainpipes or other unsightly eyesores. If you plant some drought tolerant plants together they should do well as they are suited for and thrive in dry conditions. They will not need as much care, direct sun or require special soil. Most annuals do fine in tubs, containers or baskets because they are bred to be compact and flower all through the summer season. You can pack a lot together for a big show of color. Below is an example of a window box full of Purple Petunia with a large impact.

 

Annuals are easy to care for if you trim off stems that are setting seeds. This promotes branching and new growth so you will have blooms all season. Perennials that bloom at different times can add charm in a large planter, so maintenance is easy. Deadhead the spent blooms once or twice a week to keep your pot garden looking good. Clean out weeds as you see them or apply mulch to cut down on work. Take a walk through the garden daily to look for pests who damage foliage or check out seedlings that may require some extra care or water. On extra hot days they may be stressed and wilting from too much sun. Newly planted seedlings will need water often until they are rooted. This applies to vegetables too. You can group together the plants that have similar needs. Space them close so they won’t dry out as fast. Raised beds are also an option to help reduce watering and keep weeds down to a minimum. If you know some one handy you can have custom planting tables made in any size to fit your needs. These are excellent for growing herbs and veggies, are portable and require little bending.

How to propagate by dividing

Selling extra plants after dividing large over grown clumps can be a way to share with others and even make a little money. You can also trade with other gardeners for plants you don't have. Be sure to label the divisions as you pot them with name and color of blooms.

If you have perennials that are too big for their spot, dividing them is the best option. Splitting the clump is good for the plant if it has stopped blooming because the roots may be so compacted and root bound it needs to be rejuvenated. The best time for dividing is early spring before the plant grows and the leaves are too big. If the perennials flower in spring wait until they are finished to dig up and divide.

 

1. First dig up the whole root ball and remove most of the soil. Cut off any old roots that look black or show signs of holes from insects feeding.

2. Use a sharp knife, spade or garden forks to pry apart into half and then quarters.

3. Trim off about half the length of the roots to promote new growth. Replant the divisions or pot up to give to friends or sell. Cut off the old flower stems and divide all other plants when the heat of summer is over and the plants can be cut back.

4. It’s best to divide rhubarb in fall time (September) this gives it time to root in before winter.

5. All potted perennials need to be protected over winter. If you want to save them to add to a new garden space in spring you need to have a holding spot in soil to sink them underground to overwinter in the pots. Make sure to put the pots deep enough to just cover the rim of the pot with soil then mound soil up around the crown of the plant. In spring you can dig up the pots to replant the perennials in a new garden or even sell them.

 

 

6. Making A New border or island garden? Plan Ahead. The extra plants you have stored in pots may be used in a future garden in the near future. I have become too lazy in my retirement for digging up grass for new flower gardens so to save time I use newspaper, scraps of carpet or dark colored tarp to lay on top of the grass. Layer this in late summer or fall and leave it all through the winter until May when the ground has warmed. Dig it up remove any remaining weeds or grass and add some compost or manure. Wait a couple of weeks and rake again to be sure all is cleared, then plant the perennials you have saved in pots.

Some history of gardening

THE FIRST FARMERS The origin of shaped and designed gardens dates back to around 3000 BC when the Egyptians farmed and built elaborate temples. The great palaces were decorated with potted topiary trimmed in fancy shapes made of box hedges. The designs were liked by traveling visitors and began to move into countries like Italy, Spain and Greece. Great cities like Rome had some knowledge of landscape design and engineering as far back as AD400. Through centuries of history people who gardened enjoyed turning open land into parks and play areas. Over time cities formed with homes featuring courtyards for growing fruit trees, herbs and vegetables. As the explorers traveling to new world's encountered many plants, they traded seeds, bulbs, spices with others. This enabled the spread of floral collections to move west across Europe and Britain. Devoted gardeners like monks had herbs, trees and food crops. They made wine, medicines and helped farmers with advice on crops to improve production. The first monks were like the master gardeners of the time.

Plants also were used for dyes on the hair, face and for cloth. The monks were the doctors who made medicinal teas from plants they grew, colored ink for recording history, recipes for healing and how to season food as well. Drying the herbs made it easier for them to preserve for making medicine. Many were pickled in a vinegar brine and to flavor wine too.

GARDEN HISTORY BY DESIGN The greatest thing ever in nature is to observe seeds go to plant and bloom in stages. We tend the plant for as long as it's alive in our garden. The seed knows what to do all on its own. The gardener simply chooses a style he wants to use to express by arranging the plants and choosing his or her personal beauty. That is why gardeners find this to be an interesting and satisfying hobby. We tend and feel responsible for the living plants. This can often become an obsession. Some of the oldest plants are still the toughest, most dependable plants to begin with if you are a new gardener. The cottage gardens were definitely very useful to help people be self sufficient. The plants grown varied and included fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers all enclosed in a fenced or walled in area. This was a very easy way to keep pests out.

Attracting birds

You can hang a feeder in the garden to see who comes to visit, but also consider what else the birds might need. Flowers with nectar, seeds they like and berries for winter food. Birds like to drink at water features and cool off in birdbaths. They need trees and shrubs for perches and protection from wind. Native plants attract birds and supply some food as well.

 

 

Many birds help by eating flying pests in your garden. Nature lovers and birdwatchers can view birds simply by providing food and shelter for them all year round. Some birds stay the winter and will keep visiting if food is near. Start to place some seed out in fall just before winter sets in. Continue to fill the feeders every week until spring. That's when the birds can find plenty to eat on their own. By planting evergreens like pine, spruce and cedar you can provide nesting and roosting sites. The seeds from ornamental grasses are eaten by finches and chickadee. They will nest in the tall grass. They like native plants like thistles, Coneflower, Milkweed so leave the flower head on the plants to provide some seeds. Dill, parsley, corn, fennel and carrot all provide good seeds for birds. It's simple to add a hedge row of raspberries, serviceberry, choke cherry, highbush cranberry, crab apple or grape to provide a wind break as well as food and shelter for birds. Cut off the whole head of your sunflowers and tie to a fence or hang from low branches of trees to feed the birds. Use recycled objects to fill with suet and seeds for hanging bird feeders.

 

Thick rows of rose bushes, dogwood, snowberry, currents or willow added to a hedge to provide food and perches for birds. Always leave the trimming and cleanup until spring. Common birds like Blue Jay, Cardinal, Goldfinch, Junco, Grosbeak, Chickadee and Sparrow all enjoy most sunflower and mixed seeds. Add these to bacon fat and peanut butter to coat logs or pine cones. Hang the treats out on branches close to a window and watch them enjoy. Hummingbirds are so fast and so tiny you might not know you have some visiting unless you're looking for them. By planting their favorite nectar plants and choosing red and orange bloom colors you will have success in attracting some hummingbirds. They feed 3 to 5 times a day on nectar from tube shape flowers like coral bells, trumpet vine, columbine, Salvia, Penstemon and Canna lily.

Shade gardens

Shade gardens are those planted and grown in areas that get very little or no direct sunlight. They are often under trees or along buildings and fences. The challenge is to find plants that thrive in the shade you have. It may be cool, damp, dry or very wet. Plants not suited for the shade tend to grow tall and leggy. Most herbs and vegetables don't do well in mostly shady gardens. Some ground covers and woodland plants do very well in shade. Try Lamium and Euonymus under a tree or up a shady fence or wall. These can be used instead of grass as it is often difficult to grow grass because the tree will take all the moisture available. Shady spots are also ideal for seating areas, small patios, courtyards, birdbaths or water features.

THE PLANTAIN LILY is a very attractive plant with large light green leaves. It generally flowers in late summer right up until the frosts hit in late October. They don't require any special soil, grow in wet or dry shade, can be under planted with trees or shrubs and have large showy blooms with a strong fragrance like other lilies.

 Many of the shade loving plants have large leaves with small blooms. Pick foliage with interesting textures, sizes and colors to break up all the green. Spring bulbs do well under deciduous trees because they emerge and bloom before the tree leafs out and then die back and disappear. Plant your spring bulbs in between the bigger perennials in order to have continued color in spring, early to mid summer and later in August right up to fall. Do this by choosing those that bloom at different times. The bulbs like tulip and daffodil, bloodroot and bergenia take care of May into June, then the Iris, Solomon seal, spiderwort, Ferns, some variety of Hosta and Plantain Lily take over for July into August. Penstemon, Monkshood and virginia creeper all put on a show late of color in summer right up to the first frost in fall. It's not difficult to have a very showy border in a mostly shady location.

PLANTS FOR PART SHADE: Brunnera, Spiderwort, Ferns, Phlox, Hosta, painted fern, Ajuga, Bloodroot, Periwinkle, Bergenia, Honeysuckle, Dogwood, Mock orange, Lily of the valley, Hydrangea and creeping juniper and EUPHORBIA are hardy perennials that have white, blue, pink, red or yellow blooms. Many of these also are very scented or come in varieties with variegated leaves.

 MASTERWORT is another hardy one with 24 inch stems of pink blooms in mid summer. A beardless iris like the Japanese or Siberian variety do well in damp soil and along the edge of water ponds.

 RODGERSIAS have large leaves with 24 inch stems of cream plumes. HOSTA come in plain or variegated leaf, large or small varieties and are some of the easiest perennials to grow and maintain.

 LIGULARIA have reddish leaves in spring with 36 inch tall purple stems and bright yellow blooms.

 

Bog and wetland gardens

Purple Loosestrife is a tall showy plant but beware it can be invasive in a bog or along streams and rivers. Keep it in check by pulling out young plants and deadheading to stop it from spreading.

Sedge grass holds a wet slope or edge of a pond in place with it's roots. It also provides seed heads for birds to feed on and is very ornamental.
 

Bogs, Fens, Mires and Marshes all are wet land areas that usually get drained to create agricultural or urban land use. But the plants that thrive and live there are being depleted rapidly. Cattails, sedge grass, papyrus and Saw grass all provide home to birds, insects and animals. The plants have adapted to the wet with rhizomes for underground storage and reproduction. Bogs naturally grow Peat, Moss, Heather and Heath. Some have orchids, pitcher plant, bog myrtle and fungi. Sedge grass and yellow flag are tall ornamental plants found in bogs. If you have a wet low lying area or permanent wet shady spot, you can grow some bog plants. They are well suited to moist and shady conditions. You could plant a bog if there is a stream running on your site. To make your own use a pond liner to create a bog, but control drainage by adding gravel and a few holes to let water slowly seep out. If the soil is very sandy or clay add some fallen leaves, leave to rot and compost, then add plants. Simply add more leaves every fall to feed the soil and improve the quality and texture. Royal Fern do well in wet bogs.

 

BOG plants to consider: Venus fly trap, Royal fern, Marsh Marigold, lobelia, primrose, bladderwort, bog rosemary, loosestrife all do well in wet shade. The Pitcher Plant and Siberian Iris love to have wet feet.

 

Ornamental plants For Design and Color

The most unusual and decorative plants are not always easy to afford or find in your local garden center. You may need to go online to specialty catalogs to find some. These plants are often variegated or striped. Some have spotted leaves and come in hard to find bloom colors. Some of the grasses and ferns are small or very large varieties that you may have never seen before. The lollipop allium, canna lily bulbs and ornamental Fritillaria are showy plants grown from bulbs. Yucca, globe thistle and tall pampas grasses are beautiful additions to a border or circular garden as a feature plant. Variegated dogwood, cottoneaster, and euonymus all are very striking and available in many colors. There are whites or golds and will creep and crawl up walls, foundations and fences.

Japanese painted ferns come with silvery lacy fronds and some have maroon stems. Plant them between all green Hosta in a shady border for impact. There are also many Hosta with variegated leaves. Planted in large drifts you can really make a striking effect as a backdrop for colorful plants placed in front of the green background.

Height, shape, texture and colors add layers: grow some perennials for a different and unusual garden styles. Plants with large blooms as well as interesting foliage are a great way to make a statement. The giant iris are popular plants for the back of borders because many grow at least 24 to 36 inches tall. Their spikes also come in variegated form with vertical stripes in white or yellow. They grow in natural fan shapes with pale purple blooms. Woody herbs like Lavender, Artemesia and Russian Sage have gray green foliage and upright blooms. Their color and form add height and scent to gardens. Shrubs with large ornamental blooms like hydrangea, snowball bush, Oriental poppy, lilac and Rose of Sharon are worth planting for show in borders.

Ornamental trees: Magnolia, Japanese maple and Purple Sandcherry add beautiful blooms and color. Espalier for trees or woody plants are very decorative. It is the practice of controlling growth by pruning and tying branches to a wall, fence or wood frame. Apples, pears and grapes can be shaped into formal patterns that radiate out horizontally along wires or attached using hooks. Training trees this way is very attractive, allows you to grow fruit in a small space and increases the production amount of the fruit. You can as also grow low growing berries by creating a hedge or border with support posts, a trellis, strong wire or an existing fence. Shapes can be fans, square, so shaped, v shaped or circular

 Growing grapes on arbors, pergolas or fences can save space as well as provide some privacy. You can train any type of vine to crawl along and cover an eye sore like utility boxes, compost areas or an unsightly neighbors back yard. Other vines like Trumpet Vine, Wisteria, Roses work well. Living Green Walls are becoming very popular to divide a space in a garden, Be sure to construct a strong frame  using metal pipes for your trellis to grow and support the vines you wish to plant.